Borders

September 20, 2024

Danger of black ice on the Flüela Pass - this unusually early onset of winter was unexpected. Since I’m still dealing with headaches and a sore throat, I decide to take the train through the Vereina tunnel. At least, crossing the Ofen Pass and Stelvio Pass should be feasible, and the weather forecast for the next few days looks promising.

In Klosters, before the tunnel, it’s still raining; in Zernez, after the tunnel, it’s sunny with only a few scattered clouds - what a contrast! I'm excited, as if I’m back on the sunny side of life. I take my time on the Ofen Pass, frequently launching my drone for aerial views. While this prevents me from getting into a proper rhythm, I know that the hotel at the pass summit should still be within reach.

I’m in awe of this nature - this untouched beauty, this forest, and this winding road leading to ever-new, wonderful vistas. It’s fantastic.

I feel connected.
I feel as free as a bird.

At the hotel, I recharge with good food and wellness for the next day. After all, I have around 1,400 meters of elevation gain ahead of me, along with the Umbrail and Stelvio Passes, which are the highest points of my entire journey. Of course, catching the sunrise in such a place is a must for drone photography. The mountain landscape here is breathtaking, and with the fog that has formed on one side, there’s a certain mystique.

Initially, my GPS leads me through a pasture filled with mother cows. A sign warns me to steer clear of them, which would be nearly impossible on my bike. Luckily, none are in my way. I manage to find my way back to the pass road. Here comes the next surprise: I witness a cattle drive. "Finally, the motorcyclists and car racers are being slowed down," I think with a smile. Hairpin turns here, hairpin turns there - the road winds back and forth. It’s steep, very steep for me with my fully loaded bike. Occasionally, I receive applause from other road users. These motivational boosts are priceless.

I make it to the Umbrail Pass, and in light snowfall, I also reach the Stelvio Pass. I’m pushing my limits. I reach the national border, I’m now in Italy. Even several hundred meters before the summit, my emotions overwhelm me, and I burst into tears. Yet I keep riding onward until I finally reach the pass.

Reaching the Stelvio Pass at an altitude of 2,757 meters above sea level makes me feel that anything is possible.

At the pass, I strike up a conversation with an American. When he lifts my bike, he can hardly believe I made it up here. Just before my departure, I wasn’t even sure I could manage 20 kilometers with it. And now I’m at the Stelvio! With pride, I walk into the hotel at the summit. The next day, I’m rewarded with a spectacular descent - the well-deserved payoff for hard “work.”

Epiphany

Beginnings