Lakes

September 24, 2024

Lakes emanate a deep sense of peace and are places of longing for me. Over the next few days, I’ll be cycling from one lake to another.

The route takes me from the lake Braies in Italy to the lake Weissensee in Austria, and then to lake Bled in Slovenia.

The ride from the lake Braies to Lienz is mostly downhill, with some flat stretches. A bit of headwind picks up, and a woman of a certain age passes me on her e-bike. Boldly, I ask if I can ride in her slipstream. She waves me off at first, but we strike up a conversation. She’s a local, just returning from a day trip to Lienz, and I share details about my journey. As the headwind intensifies, she gestures for me to ride in her slipstream. However, when the road begins to climb, I struggle to keep pace. Running low on water, I ask if she knows of a nearby fountain. She points one out, and after a quick stop, I have to let her continue ahead.

The day ends with a steep climb to the lake Weissensee, featuring gradients of up to 16%. My bags feel like they weigh a ton.

Knowing I have a rest day planned for tomorrow helps me push through without stopping. At Hotel Winkler-Tuschnig, I receive an upgrade from a single to a wonderful double room with a lake view, “so you can properly relax,” they say. It seems it paid off to include a link to my travel blog in the booking! The hotel turns out to be the perfect place to recharge. The family running it is incredibly friendly and attentive—they even wash my laundry. I learn that one of their staff members is also planning a round-the-world bike trip. Sadly, we won’t meet, as he won’t return until the afternoon of the following day. Starving, I order one-and-a-half portions of a local pasta specialty with a salad. I can feel my initial nerves fading, and I’m settling into a sense of inner calm.

I’m also sleeping better, getting closer to my usual eight hours, compared to the five or six I was managing at the start of the trip. The rest day is dedicated to my blog: writing entries and uploading photos.

Even on a day when my bike stays in the stable, there’s plenty to do.

I don’t miss out on a swim in the lake Weissensee. At 16 degrees Celsius, the water is cold but perfect for recovery. Almost every hotel on the lake has its own private swimming area. Only a small section of the lake is public, which feels a bit too exclusive for me. Nevertheless, I have my own private dock, as the other guests at the hotel find the conditions too harsh. It’s a slow, lazy day - exactly as it should be.

The journey to lake Bled is a different story: Over 100 kilometers and 1,175 meters of elevation. A ferry takes me across Weissensee to the eastern shore. Onboard, I meet Waltraut, who treats me to a drink and some pretzels. It seems like this trip is blessed with "Waltrauts" - she’s the second one after Wally in Merano. The ferry ride is stunning, with the lake reflecting the surrounding mountains, veiled in a thin mist.

Just a few hours later, I cross from Italy into Slovenia - my first time in this country. Slovenia greets me with the few rays of sunshine I see all day. A brief section of the route through Triglav National Park gives me a glimpse of the untouched wilderness, with its vast forests and towering mountains.

I arrive at the lake Bled just before dark and quickly launch my drone to capture the iconic island with its church in the middle of the lake. Then it’s a race to find a campsite, pitch my tent, grab a bite to eat, and finally relax.

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