Desert

November 26, 2024

The desert. A place you hear so much about - most often, how unforgiving and hostile it can be. Those stories have always filled me with a sense of unease. Facing it requires effort and courage. I had to push myself to take the leap. To feel more secure, I packed more food into my bags than ever before and, along with my regular water bottles, strapped an additional 10 liters of water onto my front rack. I hadn’t accounted for the extra weight during my route planning, but now, it’s quite slowing me down.

The first day turns into an intense struggle. At one point, I’m certain I won’t make it to my planned destination.

I don’t pass a single village today - only the occasional Bedouin tents dotting the horizon.

At some point, a car pulls up beside me. A hand reaches out, offering two water bottles. While I technically have enough water, the gesture moves me deeply. I’m reminded that I’m not completely alone. The driver had followed me on purpose just to hand me the water before turning back.

This simple act of kindness brings tears to my eyes, and some of my fear melts away.

Later that day, another man gives me two oranges through his car window. These small acts of generosity repeat throughout my journey in the Saudi Arabian desert. Strangers often give me water, fruit, or even other types of food. Such gestures feel sadly unimaginable in Switzerland.

A large sign marks the entrance to the Prince Mohammed Bin Salman Royal Reserve.

The landscape changes. I see camels and donkeys, and the road begins to roll with a series of gentle but relentless ups and downs. I press on. From a distance, I spot a steep incline ahead and silently hope my turnoff into Wadi Disah appears before I reach it. Thankfully, it does. But just as relief washes over me, I’m confronted by a large sign: Road Closed. I had read online that other travelers had been stopped at this northeastern entrance to the stunning valley. My heart sinks - this can’t be true.

Turning back isn’t an option; my legs are already exhausted, and the day is nearing its end. Returning to the turnoff and following the road south is equally impossible. That would mean tackling the steep climb I’ve been dreading, which my legs simply can’t handle anymore. With no other choice, I decide to attempt passing the checkpoint unnoticed. A car approaches as I inch forward. The Saudi driver rolls down his window and assures me it’s no problem to pass. His words, though casual, are deeply reassuring, even if his glance at my bicycle is somewhat skeptical.

The road continues with a gentle incline for a few hundred meters before suddenly plunging downward, unveiling an entirely new world.

The vastness ahead is breathtaking. The landscape stretches endlessly, with thousands of mountain peaks shimmering in the golden glow of the evening light. It feels as though my heart has been flung wide open.

It’s a moment of transformation.

My exhaustion vanishes, replaced by awe. I can’t stop marveling at the beauty before me. Again and again, I stop to take photos, each view more striking than the last. The road twists upward briefly, only to drop sharply once more, bringing me deeper into this magical terrain.

As daylight fades, I find a sheltered spot behind a rugged rock wall to pitch my tent.

I’ve survived my first day in the desert.

Above me, wisps of clouds glow red in the setting sun - a perfect conclusion to a demanding but unforgettable day.

Zurück
Zurück

Sand

Weiter
Weiter

Salah