Banquet

October 26, 2024

From Tirana, I head back into the countryside. About a third of Albanians work in agriculture. One thing you’ll see across the country, both in the mountains and rural areas, are old bunkers from the Cold War era. Tens of thousands were built by the former dictator.

Today, for the first time since Croatia, I reach the sea. Durrës, a popular beach destination, feels deserted. Only a few people walk along the promenade, and the beach is almost empty. The closed hotels, bars, and restaurants are a stark reminder of how different it must be in the high season.

I plan to spend the night in the Divjaka-Karavasta National Park, located right by the sea.

The park is home to trees over 400 years old, and it's an important stop for migratory birds, as well as a haven for waterfowl.

On the way, I’m greeted by a turtle.

It’s a "Greek turtle," as I later learn from my research. It must have wandered into Albania by mistake. I continue deeper into the forest, along the beach, and cross a bridge until I find my campsite, nestled between reeds and the sea.

And here it is: the banquet!

Finally, no hesitation. There's plenty of food - well, almost. I don’t partake. I am the banquet.

Thousands of mosquitoes seem to have been waiting for me. The mosquito spray dulls the experience a bit, but not too much—they can still bite. I briefly open the tent to slip inside but manage to squash five mosquitoes during my less lavish dinner inside. Between the inner and outer layers of the tent, I see the others who didn’t quite make it inside. They must feel like bacon being pulled from their mouths all night long.

At sunrise, they get their next chance, and I seize mine too. I capture some beautiful photos with my drone. Afterward, I quickly pack up and head out.

As I leave the park, my bike starts making a grinding noise from all the sand.

Well, it’s the perfect opportunity to try a "Lavazh," a car wash business that seems to pop up every 600 meters in Albania. It’s a small spot with a water hose where someone washes cars all day—or in my case, a bicycle. The process is just as thorough. They even foam it up at the start. My bike has never been this clean.

By evening, I’m nearly out of water. I ask at two restaurants, and both offer me a free bottle, even though I would have been happy to pay. Now I’m well-stocked for the night. I decide to treat myself to some ice cream - time for my own little banquet. But at the checkout, I realize I’ve given all my small change to the Lavazh guy. In a quick turn of events, I get the ice cream for free too.

The Albanian hospitality is overwhelming.

Next, I head to the Narta Lagoon, part of the Vjosa-Narta Landscape Protection Area, home to many birds.

Here, the Vjosa, one of Europe’s last wild rivers, meets the sea - or rather, it becomes sand.

Apparently, this area has caught the attention of Jared Kushner, Trump’s son-in-law, who wants to build a luxury resort here. A nearby airport is already under construction. There’s ongoing political debate about whether this area should still be considered part of the Vjosa Protection Area, which was declared in 2023 - a highly controversial issue. However, I haven’t noticed anything unusual during my visit. And the mosquitoes don’t seem to have heard the news, as they swarm around me just as much as before.

Another banquet...

Wild

Iron Wilma