Wild

October 30, 2024

My original plan was to cycle along the wild Vjosa River. However, in just a few days, my mom and brother will be joining me in Greece with a rental car.

So, I rent a car for a day in Sarandë. As I drive out of the city, I sweat nearly as much as I would while cycling. Navigating through the chaotic Albanian traffic while trying to follow the GPS is quite a challenge.

I arrive at the Blue Eye, Albania’s most water-rich spring.

Here the water emerges from an unexplored source, creating a river that bursts with vibrant green and blue hues.

From a drone’s perspective, the beauty of the place really shines.

Unfortunately, this stunning natural site has, in my opinion, been somewhat sacrificed to tourism. There are parking lots close to the water, restaurants right next to the spring, and you can even rent e-scooters to ride along a paved road almost all the way to the source. Of course, I walked.

I continue my journey and manage to capture some more great drone shots of the wild hinterland. By the time I reach the Vjosa River Valley, it’s getting dark, and I can’t see much.

The river’s strong meanders are framed by the high mountains on either side. I drive down to a riverbed, where I spend the night in the car, unaware of the stunning landscape around me.

The next morning, the landscape looks incredible, revealed by the early light.

After a cold night, the fog slowly gives way to the rising sun. The autumn trees provide a golden frame for the river, turning the whole valley into a shimmering sea of gold.

I drive into a side valley and find hot springs. What a treat - a warm bath in nature to start the day! It reminds me of Iceland. Behind the springs, there’s a canyon, which I hike up for a few hundred meters.

The canyon reveals a different, wild face with every turn. Eventually, I have to take off my shoes to avoid getting them wet - the water here is ice-cold.

On my way back, I adjust to the Albanian approach to traffic rules (or rather, the lack thereof) and manage to return the car just in time. However, as I enter Sarandë, a police officer stops me. Fortunately, despite the drone on the passenger seat (which is banned in Albania), they only check if I’m wearing my seatbelt. I still follow the safety rules, of course. After a quick check, I’m allowed to continue.

In the afternoon, I cycle a few more kilometers to Ksamil. I feel like going out tonight, but almost everything is closed. The season is over. Only the darkened bars remind me that the high season here can get wild. I eventually find a small bar, enjoy an Amaretto sour, and end up going to bed earlier than expected. A wild night, it turns out, is not meant to be after all…

Light show

Banquet