Charming

October 20, 2024

Beyond Kotor, a winding mountain road known for its panoramic views zigzags up the hillside. But after my climb through Durmitor National Park, I’ve had my fill of uphill efforts. Instead, I opt to take the nearby cable car that leads to the same peak, with plans to enjoy the descent down the switchbacks.

The cable car’s website didn’t mention any bike restrictions - I had checked in advance. But upon arrival, the attendant informs me that bikes aren’t allowed. So, I secure mine at the base station and rent one at the top. The slight hassle is soon forgotten once I see the view.

The scenery feels almost unreal, even a bit surreal.

In Kotor’s harbor, two massive cruise ships are docked. I photographed one earlier this morning from “my villa” as it arrived. No wonder the Old Town was so crowded earlier. It’s beautiful but feels overly touristy for my taste.

Not to be dismissive, but cruise ships always seem a bit like a swarm to me. People arrive in droves, crowd the area, dine, sightsee, and then depart as quickly as they arrived. Today, two of these “swarms” are in port - though at least they make for some striking photos.

I arrive just in time to catch the last light of the day at Sveti Stefan, famous for its charming old town perched on an island. It’s as photogenic as promised.

With the setting sun behind it, the scene looks almost like a postcard.

Curiously, a few years ago, foreign investors bought the entire island, intending to turn it into a luxury hotel. However, government objections kept the project from moving forward, and today, the island remains empty.

The next morning at sunrise, I imagine how amazing it would be to explore the place alone. But with its tight security and surveillance cameras, that’s clearly not an option.

Instead, I arrange a unique experience: a sunset boat tour on Lake Skadar. A tour operator in Virpazar offers me a private trip in exchange for access to my photos.

My first official “photography assignment”! A bit nervous, I board a surprisingly large wooden boat with just a guide for company. He points out some birds as we set off, including a quick sighting of a kingfisher. I’m not equipped for bird photography - besides my phone and drone, I didn’t bring a camera on this trip. When he notices I’m only using my phone, he carefully asks if I have a proper camera. I assure him that I’ll be capturing the main photos with my drone but simply lack the right equipment for bird shots. As we circle around picturesque islands and water lilies in the sunset, my drone captures the stunning views from above.

The ride and the photos are nothing short of enchanting - and my first “photography job” is a success.

The next morning, I capture the sunrise for myself. Mist drifts over the hillside and into the lakeside forest, leaving me in awe once again. The beautiful moments keep coming. The drive north around the lake is so breathtaking, it feels almost unreal. I keep glancing back at the lake, just to make sure I’m not dreaming.

Sipping a pomegranate juice, I savor the view.

Truly magical - Montenegro has completely captivated me.

(Un)lucky

Frozen Pizza