Frozen Pizza

October 18, 2024

I keep the rental car for the morning, driving to the Đurđevića Tara Bridge and visiting both the Devil’s Lakes and Black Lake. Montenegro isn’t just “black” in name or because of black-market car rentals - it even has a “black” glacial lake.

While withdrawing money to pay for the car, I hear someone call my name. Surprised, I turn around. I don’t recognize the person, but soon realize it’s the Swiss family I met yesterday, now gathered at a café. They invite me to join them.

They know my name from my website and seem to have done their “homework.” When someone asks about my job, someone else in the group answers for me, so I don’t even have to respond. They each arrived here in a different way - by bike, car, or plane. “No one came on foot?” I joke. A wonderful family.

It feels good to speak Swiss German again, but it’s time to move on.

The next two days are mostly connecting routes with few highlights, and I’m prepared for that. The drizzle isn’t too bad, but the two-kilometer tunnel I have to pass through is another story. It’s lit at the entrance but halfway in, there’s a dark stretch. Great - I didn’t put on my headlamp. Hearing cars approaching from behind, I manage to scramble onto the raised edge along the side, rough and uneven as it is. Somehow, I make it back to daylight. And somehow, just after nightfall, I reach Nikšić. By now, the drizzle has turned to wind and cold. I’d planned to camp, but I need to get dry and warm.

I buy two frozen pizzas and feel like one myself.

Back at the accommodation, I realize there’s a kitchen but no oven. Fortunately, the host lets me use her oven to bake the pizzas.

The next day is also uneventful, but the highlights wait for evening. First, the entry through steep cliffs into the Bay of Kotor is stunning. Second, I find a unique place to stay, right there by the bay.

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