Green

October 8, 2024

I’m glad we took a rest day in Mostar; I can feel that I have more strength in my legs again. It’s a green light to continue our journey. This regained strength is essential because shortly after Mostar, we face a climb of about 1,000 meters.

The road winds around the ruins of a castle.

We finally arrive at a high plateau, and the view is breathtaking! A herd of cows grazes freely in the open field.

The grasslands shine in lush green, and a small stream meanders gently through the landscape. We cross the stream and play with our shadows on the bridge to capture some fun photos.

We can hardly stop taking pictures. We enjoy this place so much that we decide to stay overnight, even though our intended destination is still quite far away. The sunset offers a stunning spectacle, even if the clear skies leave a bit to be desired in terms of drama.

A swampy area near our tents beckons us to capture reflection photos. Fortunately, we remain unaware of what awaits us that night...

I wake up for the first time at 1 a.m., urgently needing to relieve myself. I quickly get out of the sleeping bag, throw on my green sweatpants, and dash into the cold, dark night to find a spot away from the tents.

I can’t lie back down for long. Camping, cold, and diarrhea make for a toxic combination - it’s exhausting.

On my third trip to the bathroom, Martin rushes out of the tent and behind a bush as well. So, it has hit him too. He tells me it’s only his second time, and luckily, that’s where it ends for him. I think to myself, “All good things come in threes,” and optimistically hope this will be my last trip.

Not a chance! It’s certainly not a good thing. I end up dashing to the bushes a total of six times that night! Apparently, all bad things come in multiples of three. The reason becomes clear the next morning: after being served tap water at a restaurant in Mostar without any issues, we assumed the hostel’s tap water would be safe too. We were quite naïve.

In any case, the night wasn’t restful. However, we are rewarded with a beautiful sunrise, complete with fog.

As we ride through a stunning valley, our stomachs still rumble a bit, but the worst is definitely behind us. Friends of mine who traveled through the Balkans about two weeks ahead of us recommended a route that features a rocky, steep path, but it's said to be beautiful and offers the chance to cross into Montenegro over the “green border.” Since drones are not allowed in Montenegro, I can avoid border control, so we decide to take this route.

Montenegro, here we come!

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