Eventually, we reach one of Lake Piva’s winding arms. The nearby town of Plužine, though, doesn’t do justice to its stunning surroundings. It feels as if many of the buildings were thrown together without thought to aesthetics. Still, we treat ourselves to a hearty meal at a local restaurant. Then, mindful of the time - the sun sets early in this narrow valley - we continue, knowing it’s time to find a campsite.
But now the road hugs the lake’s edge, winding through countless tunnels. With barely any space between the lake and cliffs, there’s just enough room for the road. How are we supposed to find a campsite here? We clearly miscalculated this. Minds racing, we decide to ride to the end of the lake, then double back on the opposite side, where we assume there will be less traffic and a chance to find a camping spot. But that’s still about 16 kilometers away. We don’t have much choice.
The tunnels are mostly short but unlit, now pitch dark. I generally dislike biking through tunnels - it feels confining, and I have to rely on drivers to navigate carefully, as there’s no room for error. The sound of engines echoing through the tunnels makes me shudder. Time is running out. We pass through one dark tunnel after another, and as it gets later, it grows even darker outside the tunnels. The situation feels increasingly unsafe. Thankfully, both of us bought taillights in Mostar. My usual taillight is dim, so we also wear headlamps.