Fire

October 15, 2024

On our journey to the green border, we’re surrounded by the rich hues of yellow, red, and orange. The path is steep and rocky, so we mostly push our bikes. We set up camp on a hill, still on the Bosnian side.

The sky is partly cloudy, making the sunset seem unremarkable. But just before disappearing, the sun’s golden orb emerges for one last time.

And suddenly, the sky is ablaze!

The entire horizon glows, deepening from red to even richer reds, blending with orange and violet - a natural spectacle. I don’t know where to aim the drone’s camera; everything around us is stunning. The photos almost look surreal, too vibrant. But it’s all real - a pure delight.

The sunrise the next morning brings another incredible display of light and color!

We continue uphill, switching between riding and pushing the bikes. Just before the summit, we step onto Montenegrin soil for the first time - something we only realize thanks to Google Maps. Otherwise, it would be hard to tell that we’ve crossed a border.

Autumn has unmistakably arrived!

The trees glow in brilliant autumn colors, once again dominated by yellow, red, and orange. Finally, at the pass, we stop for a quick snack and enjoy the view beside free-roaming cows. The descent into the valley is pure joy. I’m thrilled by the ride down. The vibrant trees, empty, well-paved road, majestic mountains, and branching side valleys create a scene of pure beauty. It’s one of those moments when happiness overwhelms me - a goosebumps moment.

Endorphins flood my body, and tears of joy fill my eyes. Martin feels the same way.

Eventually, we reach one of Lake Piva’s winding arms. The nearby town of Plužine, though, doesn’t do justice to its stunning surroundings. It feels as if many of the buildings were thrown together without thought to aesthetics. Still, we treat ourselves to a hearty meal at a local restaurant. Then, mindful of the time - the sun sets early in this narrow valley - we continue, knowing it’s time to find a campsite.

But now the road hugs the lake’s edge, winding through countless tunnels. With barely any space between the lake and cliffs, there’s just enough room for the road. How are we supposed to find a campsite here? We clearly miscalculated this. Minds racing, we decide to ride to the end of the lake, then double back on the opposite side, where we assume there will be less traffic and a chance to find a camping spot. But that’s still about 16 kilometers away. We don’t have much choice.

The tunnels are mostly short but unlit, now pitch dark. I generally dislike biking through tunnels - it feels confining, and I have to rely on drivers to navigate carefully, as there’s no room for error. The sound of engines echoing through the tunnels makes me shudder. Time is running out. We pass through one dark tunnel after another, and as it gets later, it grows even darker outside the tunnels. The situation feels increasingly unsafe. Thankfully, both of us bought taillights in Mostar. My usual taillight is dim, so we also wear headlamps.

Now it’s just a matter of pushing through, eyes wide open. Every now and then, there’s a glimpse of the road ahead. We’re both tense. Eventually, we reach the dam at the lake’s northern end.

“No parking!”

An unexpectedly loud voice booms from a megaphone in a small booth on the other side of the dam as we pause to look down into the deep valley.

Clearly, they mean us. We move on, skipping the sightseeing. As expected, we soon reach a quiet road. Finally, we find the perfect spot for our tents: flat ground with some grass, right by the lake. Although there’s nothing here that resembles an official campsite, someone eventually stops by and charges us €3 each. We’re happy to pay, relieved and exhausted. We hadn’t expected to find such a good spot. There are two camper vans nearby, but they’re at a good distance.

For the first time on this trip, we make a campfire. Yellow, red, and orange flames dance into the dark night. It’s our last evening together; tomorrow, Martin and I will go our separate ways. What a day!

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