Guest

December 4, 2024

Hamoud and his friends are hesitant to let me go. Several times, I had to decline their offer to stay another night after our pleasant evening together. They even planned to roast a lamb over the fire, which was tempting. However, Waldemar and Sandra, the Swiss couple, had invited me to their Airbnb in Al'Ula, where they had a free room for one more night. Reuniting with them, taking a proper shower, washing my clothes, and being around people who speak the same language made it an easy decision to leave.

I decide to leave early in the morning for a long and tiring stage. It’s going to be a short night since we didn’t go to bed until after midnight. I wake Hamoud to say goodbye, thank him, and ask for the key. My luggage is still at the other house; we slept in the tent. Two of his friends, who were with us the previous evening, arrive with breakfast. I can’t refuse, as it gives me the energy I need. I sincerely thank everyone again. One of the friends isn’t there, so I ask them to pass along my regards to him.

With the house key, I retrieve my luggage. Hamoud offered to come with me, but I decline since he’s clearly still very tired.

A short, steep climb brings me to a curve where a truck has overturned - apparently a minor accident.

The two Pakistanis assure me they’re fine and don’t need any help. They’ve been waiting here for three days for a mechanic.

I continue through the area where we hunted wolves yesterday, wondering if one might suddenly appear. Thankfully, the terrain is open, although mostly gray, which makes it difficult to spot a wolf.

After about an hour, a car stops in front of me. It’s Hamoud and his friends.

One friend, who couldn’t say goodbye earlier, wanted to do so now, so they’ve driven after me. It’s hard to believe - I’ve known them for only a few hours. They mention that I haven’t traveled as far as they expected. I explain that the steep climb slowed me down. In the afternoon, once it’s downhill, I’ll be much faster. I’m on schedule. They head back home, and I continue to tackle the remaining elevation.

On the way down, I spot five trucks parked by the roadside.

The four Pakistanis and one Indian invite me for tea. They’ve been waiting here for a whole week for a mechanic from Riyadh and have found creative ways to pass the time.

I’m invited to join a PET bottle-and-stone knocking competition, though I don’t win.

After all, they’ve had days of practice. My visit provides a welcome distraction, and their joy is expressed with a dance.

I continue down into a valley, no longer on a mountain but between two ranges. Shortly after, the landscape changes. The dark browns and blacks of the mountainous terrain give way to light brown rock formations rising in the flat area. Al’Ula reveals its first spectacular face.

I arrive at Sandra and Waldemar’s place just ten minutes later than I had planned in the morning. I spent so much time taking photos, but otherwise, I would have been exactly on time, which even surprises me. Thankfully, I finally have internet access again and can let them know about the slight delay – after all, we’re Swiss.

From a distance, I see two people standing on side streets and wonder who they are. As I get closer, I realize they are my hosts, waiting to greet me. The shower feels like a rebirth after a week without one. They insist on treating me to both dinner and the overnight stay, and I promise to invite them to dinner in Bern one day.

For dinner, we drive to the renovated "Old Town" of Al'Ula. It seems that everything here has not only been renovated but also newly built, likely modeled after the original. Compared to the rest of Al'Ula, it definitely looks newer, not older. In the evening, there’s a sea of lights to admire. I’m unsure what to think of it. It’s definitely beautiful to look at, and the architecture still gives you the feeling of being in an Arab region. But somehow, the charm of the old has been lost in my eyes. It feels too polished to be truly authentic.

From the parking lot, it's only about 100 meters, but a small bus with four seats takes us there. I’m not a fan of this, but we go along with the experience. It’s clear that Al'Ula is being developed into a major tourist hub. Alongside the religious destinations of Mecca and Medina, and possibly even surpassing Riyadh due to its size and significance, it’s already one of the most touristy places in Saudi Arabia.

This country has set itself the goal of attracting the most tourists in the world within a few years. Diversification is key, as relying solely on oil is no longer viable. It’s no surprise that Al'Ula, with its great potential, plays a role in these plans, with investments visible everywhere. This potential primarily lies in Hegra, a UNESCO World Heritage site. But other attractions, like the Maraya Mirror House, also draw visitors.

The next morning, I say a heartfelt goodbye to Waldemar and Sandra.

I will now be a guest at Ahmed's house. He lives in Al'Ula and drove me up a steep mountain road in his car a few days ago.

So many kind people have invited me to stay with them that my tent is almost gathering dust.

Swiss

Hunting