Swiss

December 2, 2024

Red tomatoes on a white pickup - my first conversation partner of the day, just 30 meters from the campsite, stops to ask who I am and where I’m going. To both of our delight, he gives me four of his tomatoes. I could have taken more, but then I’d have to carry them all.

After "How are you?", the second most common question here in Saudi Arabia is "Where are you from?"

When I answer that I’m from Switzerland, people here get really excited. Apparently, Switzerland has a great reputation in Saudi Arabia. The road ahead feels like a roller coaster, with steep ups and downs.

Not long after, I’m asked again from a car: "Where are you from?" I’m surprised to see that it’s a tourist couple. So far, outside of the hotel in Tabuk, I haven’t seen any other tourists in Saudi Arabia. At the Hotel in Tabuk, I had only met other Arabs.

It quickly turns out they are from Switzerland too. What a joy to speak Swiss German again! Waldemar and Sandra not only give me a hotspot so I can quickly message home to let them know everything is fine, but also share some delicious figs and tell me about an interesting Mushroom Rock on the way to Al’Ula.

They are also heading to Al’Ula, but, of course, much faster in a rental car. We exchange phone numbers, and I point them to my website.

In an app, I see that free water is available at a specific location. I hope this is true since I’m running low on water. And sure enough, at the exact spot indicated, I find water with good pressure coming from an elevated tank. These water tanks are commonly provided in Saudi Arabia, especially near mosques.

A red sign with white lettering indicates that a road is closed. Which road, I have no idea. Hopefully, it’s not mine. A herd of donkeys crosses the road.

Suddenly, I find myself surrounded by steep rock walls; the road seems to have been carved through the rock here.

The road then descends, revealing views of palm groves. Palms!

I’ve barely seen any so far, and it feels like an oasis. The nearby town is small. Not long after, I arrive at my campsite.

Here, I find some truly unique rock formations.

One looks like a human head, while another changes from a surprised face to a duck’s head with an open mouth, depending on the angle. I set up my tent just behind the duck.

During a walk afterward, I discover bone fragments and carvings etched into the stone. How old could these drawings be? What an experience today has been, so foreign to me as a Swiss!

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