Humility

October 16, 2024

“We had a visitor last night,” Martin says as he greets me in the morning. A fox had nibbled on his handlebar grips until Martin finally scared it off. I hadn’t noticed the night-time guest at all.

I decide to ride with Martin to the Bosnian border, where he’ll head north through Bosnia, while I turn south toward Durmitor National Park. The journey to the border is spectacular.

The Piva River has carved a deep path through the mountains.

The road closely follows the river, winding through tunnels and crossing a breathtaking bridge over the V-shaped valley with the river far below. Even the most exposed rock ledges support trees growing from them. In this imposing canyon landscape, you feel small, and a sense of humility takes over.

The border between Montenegro and Bosnia is marked by the Tapa River, which merges with the Piva shortly after the crossing. I had assumed both border checkpoints would be right before and after the bridge. But as we arrive, I realize I have to pass through the Montenegrin exit checkpoint - even though I’m staying in the country. My nerves rise because I’m carrying my drone, which could be confiscated if found. I wonder if I should have taken another route to Sedlo Pass, even considering turning back, though the detour would be huge.

Martin tries to reassure me, and we stop for a goulash at a restaurant near the checkpoint. Following his advice, I repack my bags, hiding the drone in my jacket, which I then bury at the bottom of my pannier under all my dirty laundry. And on a bike tour, “dirty” really means dirty: you sweat constantly, rarely get to wash, and wear the same clothes repeatedly. It’s hard to imagine anyone digging through all that, but you never know how thorough a border check might be.

Trying to keep calm, I do my best to appear unremarkable. Eventually, we head out - no turning back now. Humbly, we hand over our IDs to the border officer. He nods and glances briefly at our bikes from his booth. Oh no! But, thankfully, he seems interested only in the bikes themselves, not the contents of our bags. With a nod of approval, he waves us through the gate. Phew… that was close.

Our farewell is brief - a hug, well-wishes, and that’s it. I hope we’ll meet again. Martin crosses the bridge, while I turn right, relieved to see there’s no entry checkpoint on my side. Some things defy logic!

My official stats in Montenegro so far:

  • Official Entries: 0

  • Official Exits: 1

  • And yet, I remain in the country.

Now, I have to climb 1,000 meters uphill. I’m starting to understand why this country is called “Montenegro” (Black Mountain) - though at the moment, shades of red, yellow, and orange dominate the landscape.

I remember that bears inhabit Durmitor National Park. Shortly after, a sign confirms this, also mentioning that wolves live here too. Just great. Mentally, I prepare myself for the possibility of encountering one of these creatures around every bend, quietly hoping to avoid such an encounter.

Finally, I reach a high plateau and set up my tent.

When I launch my drone, I can hardly believe my eyes: the landscape near my campsite looks like the surface of the moon, with large, crater-like holes in the ground.

So, I’ve made it to the moon. A giant leap for me, if not for mankind.

Once again, I feel small in this awe-inspiring landscape as humility washes over me. Feeling refreshed, I settle into my tent, making sure to store all my food securely inside. The last thing I want is to attract wolves or bears…

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