The test

November 2, 2024

During a lunch break by the roadside on my way to Preveza, a cyclist heading in the opposite direction stares at me for an unusually long time. It turns out she was confused, unsure if I was her friend. He apparently rides the exact same bike, with identical bags, but was supposed to be behind her. Shortly afterward, he catches up.

They’re also from Bern - what a small world! Nico and Nora, a friendly couple.

They have already traveled together from Switzerland to Turkey. Now, they plan to continue to Morocco before heading home at the end of the year.

Just before reaching Preveza, I stop at Europe’s 22-kilometer-long, second-largest beach for a swim in the sea. Believe it or not, despite my long journey, I hadn’t yet swum in the sea and had only been in the water once - in Lake Weissensee.

This evening, I’m meeting my mom and brother in Preveza. I’m really looking forward to it. However, it seems there’s a recurring pattern: before I can meet someone from home, I always face some kind of challenge.

Today proves to be no exception.

After my swim, as twilight sets in, an older man approaches me, holding a stick.

Waving his arms and repeatedly saying “No, no,” he signals that I shouldn’t continue down the road.

I stop in front of him, and then, unexpectedly, he demands money. This isn’t begging; it’s a demand. I haven’t exchanged any Euros yet and only have a few leftover Albanian Lek. Without hesitation, I decide to turn around. Fortunately, he doesn’t follow me; he probably realizes I’m faster.

A short time later, a young man approaches me, also saying, “No, no.” Anticipating what might happen next, I immediately turn back. Another young man joins him and starts throwing stones at me.

The next street turns out to be equally unsettling.

It’s swarming with aggressive-looking dogs, riling each other up. I dismount my bike, trying to calm them - and myself. Eventually, I manage to find refuge on the grounds of a business. A woman there explains that this is a dangerous area and advises me to take the main road instead. It’s busier with traffic but much safer.

Shaken but unharmed, I finally reach my apartment in Preveza. Challenge completed. Shortly afterward, as a reward, my two “travel guests” join me.

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