After my swim, as twilight sets in, an older man approaches me, holding a stick.
Waving his arms and repeatedly saying “No, no,” he signals that I shouldn’t continue down the road.
I stop in front of him, and then, unexpectedly, he demands money. This isn’t begging; it’s a demand. I haven’t exchanged any Euros yet and only have a few leftover Albanian Lek. Without hesitation, I decide to turn around. Fortunately, he doesn’t follow me; he probably realizes I’m faster.
A short time later, a young man approaches me, also saying, “No, no.” Anticipating what might happen next, I immediately turn back. Another young man joins him and starts throwing stones at me.
The next street turns out to be equally unsettling.
It’s swarming with aggressive-looking dogs, riling each other up. I dismount my bike, trying to calm them - and myself. Eventually, I manage to find refuge on the grounds of a business. A woman there explains that this is a dangerous area and advises me to take the main road instead. It’s busier with traffic but much safer.
Shaken but unharmed, I finally reach my apartment in Preveza. Challenge completed. Shortly afterward, as a reward, my two “travel guests” join me.